Getting Around Pelion
Getting around the Pelion Peninsula is a very different experience from travelling on larger, flatter Greek islands. The landscape is mountainous, heavily forested, and full of winding coastal roads and traditional villages perched on hillsides. Because of this geography, distances that look short on a map can take much longer than you might expect, and the mode of transport you choose has a big impact on how much of the region you can realistically explore.
Most visitors find that having a car is the easiest and most flexible way to move around Pelion. The road network connects the main villages and beaches, but it’s not designed for speed. You’ll be driving along narrow, often steep roads with plenty of bends, and occasionally through very small village streets where parking can be tight. That said, the payoff is huge: a car lets you reach both the calm Pagasetic Gulf side and the more dramatic Aegean coast, each offering very different scenery and swimming spots. It also gives you the freedom to stop at viewpoints, tavernas, and hidden coves that are not accessible by public transport.
Public buses do operate across the peninsula, mainly run by the regional KTEL service, connecting Volos with larger villages such as Portaria, Tsagarada, and Zagora. They tend to be reliable but relatively infrequent, especially outside peak summer months. Schedules often revolve around local needs rather than tourist convenience, so you might find only a few departures per day to certain places. This makes buses workable if you plan carefully and are happy to limit yourself to a few destinations, but less practical for spontaneous exploration or hopping between beaches.
Taxis are available, particularly around Volos and some of the more popular villages, but they are not something you can rely on as readily as in a city. You’ll typically need to arrange them in advance for longer journeys, and costs can add up quickly due to the distances and terrain. Many accommodations can help you book a taxi or recommend a driver, which is often the easiest way to use them if you’re not renting a car.
Walking is part of the appeal of Pelion, especially within and between villages. There is an extensive network of old stone mule paths known as “kalderimia” that connect settlements through forests and olive groves. In places like Tsagarada or around the western villages near Portaria and Makrinitsa, you can spend hours exploring on foot. However, walking is generally more suited to local exploration or hiking days rather than point-to-point transport across the peninsula, unless you’re specifically planning a trekking itinerary.
There is also the option of combining transport methods. For example, some visitors stay in one or two villages and use buses or taxis for occasional trips, supplementing that with walking nearby. Others rent a car for just a few days to explore more remote areas. In summer, small boats or organised excursions can also give you access to otherwise hard-to-reach beaches along the Aegean side.
Overall, getting around Pelion requires a bit of planning and patience, but that’s part of its character. The slower pace, the winding drives, and the need to choose your routes carefully all contribute to a feeling of discovery that’s harder to find in more accessible destinations.